How to Clear Acne and Choose the Right Skincare Acids

A dermatologist suggests the best products and procedures for keeping skin healthy and clear.While popping pimples might seem tempting, it can increase the risk of enlarged pores. Hu Yi-Hsuan, a dermatologist from Taiwan, suggests using skincare acids, which can provide noticeable results within one to two weeks. She also provides practical advice on how to choose and use these products effectively and safely.Not all small spots on the skin are acne, Hu said. Spots that are hard to squeeze, have a flat, round shape, and feel slightly firm to the touch are likely acne and should be treated by a dermatologist. On the other hand, if thin, thread-like strands emerge when squeezed, they are sebaceous filaments—a normal byproduct of the skin’s natural metabolic process.Both acne and sebaceous filaments are closely linked to excess oil production on the skin. Many people try to remove them by squeezing or using acne patches but worry this might make their pores appear larger. To address this, they often apply astringent afterward, hoping to shrink their pores.Hu noted that enlarged pores are usually just a visual effect, not a sign that the pores have actually increased in size. Repeated squeezing, however, can damage the skin or lead to sagging, so it should be done with caution.Essential Steps for Clearing AcneThe three essential steps for clearing acne, according to Hu, are:Step 1: Thoroughly Cleanse Your FaceMany people skip washing their face and removing makeup after a long, busy day, heading straight to bed instead. This can lead to clogged pores. Others may rush through their routine, which can also result in inadequate pore cleaning. Take time to thoroughly cleanse before going to bed.Step 2: Exfoliate Regularly Using exfoliating products regularly can help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. However, it is important to note that exfoliating cleansers are designed for deep cleaning, and softer, more delicate skin may become irritated or damaged by the scrubbing action. Use with care.Step 3: Incorporate Skincare AcidsIn the past, skincare acids were primarily used to treat acne-prone and excessively oily skin. Today, they have become a staple in mainstream skincare routines. Even people with dry skin can benefit, provided their skin is not cracked, overly dry, extremely tight, or sensitive. Skincare acids can help regulate oil production, reduce acne and sebaceous filaments, and minimize the appearance of enlarged pores.Tips for Selecting the Right Skincare AcidsWhen selecting skincare acids, it is crucial to consider their properties, your skin’s sensitivity, and the product’s formulation. The most commonly used acids in skincare can be divided into two main categories, Hu said:Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). AHAs are water-soluble acids with small molecules that penetrate deeply into the skin. However, they can cause irritation for people with sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations.Mandelic Acid. Mandelic acid is lipid-soluble and penetrates less deeply into the skin. Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to blend with keratin and sebum, making it particularly effective for addressing acne.When trying skincare acids for the first time, your skin may have low tolerance, or you might be unsure how it will react. To start safely, Hu recommends the following approaches:Start With Cleansers Containing Acids. Use a face wash with a small amount of acids to gently test your skin’s reaction.Choose Low Concentrations. Opt for products with lower acid concentrations, which are widely available, to ease into usage.Use Intermittently: Apply the product one day, then take a break for two to three days. This gives your skin time to adjust before gradually increasing the frequency of use.Hu said that a higher acid concentration does not always translate to stronger effects, as the product’s pH level plays a crucial role. A lower pH indicates higher acidity and greater effectiveness, while a higher pH can reduce the product’s impact, even if the acid concentration is high.In the United States, skincare regulations do not typically mandate labeling of pH levels on acid-based products, so consumers often rely on acid concentration as the primary reference point when selecting a product.When choosing the concentration of skincare acids, Hu recommends keeping AHAs, such as glycolic acid, below 10 percent. For mandelic acid, concentrations between 10 and 20 percent are generally acceptable.Related Stories11/29/2024If you experience itching during use, assess whether switching products is necessary. This reaction might result from weather changes, your skin’s condition, your overall health, or a combination of different factors. Ultimately, adjustments should be made based on your skin’s specific needs.Which Is Better: Single Acid, Multi-Acid, or Acid-Free?In addition to single-acid products, there are also multi-acid formulations and acid-free options available on the market. Multi-acid prod

How to Clear Acne and Choose the Right Skincare Acids

.

A dermatologist suggests the best products and procedures for keeping skin healthy and clear.

While popping pimples might seem tempting, it can increase the risk of enlarged pores. Hu Yi-Hsuan, a dermatologist from Taiwan, suggests using skincare acids, which can provide noticeable results within one to two weeks. She also provides practical advice on how to choose and use these products effectively and safely.

Not all small spots on the skin are acne, Hu said. Spots that are hard to squeeze, have a flat, round shape, and feel slightly firm to the touch are likely acne and should be treated by a dermatologist. On the other hand, if thin, thread-like strands emerge when squeezed, they are sebaceous filaments—a normal byproduct of the skin’s natural metabolic process.

Both acne and sebaceous filaments are closely linked to excess oil production on the skin. Many people try to remove them by squeezing or using acne patches but worry this might make their pores appear larger. To address this, they often apply astringent afterward, hoping to shrink their pores.

Hu noted that enlarged pores are usually just a visual effect, not a sign that the pores have actually increased in size. Repeated squeezing, however, can damage the skin or lead to sagging, so it should be done with caution.
.

Essential Steps for Clearing Acne

The three essential steps for clearing acne, according to Hu, are:

Step 1: Thoroughly Cleanse Your Face

Many people skip washing their face and removing makeup after a long, busy day, heading straight to bed instead. This can lead to clogged pores. Others may rush through their routine, which can also result in inadequate pore cleaning. Take time to thoroughly cleanse before going to bed.

Step 2: Exfoliate Regularly

Using exfoliating products regularly can help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. However, it is important to note that exfoliating cleansers are designed for deep cleaning, and softer, more delicate skin may become irritated or damaged by the scrubbing action. Use with care.

Step 3: Incorporate Skincare Acids

In the past, skincare acids were primarily used to treat acne-prone and excessively oily skin. Today, they have become a staple in mainstream skincare routines. Even people with dry skin can benefit, provided their skin is not cracked, overly dry, extremely tight, or sensitive. Skincare acids can help regulate oil production, reduce acne and sebaceous filaments, and minimize the appearance of enlarged pores.
.

Tips for Selecting the Right Skincare Acids

When selecting skincare acids, it is crucial to consider their properties, your skin’s sensitivity, and the product’s formulation. The most commonly used acids in skincare can be divided into two main categories, Hu said:
  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). AHAs are water-soluble acids with small molecules that penetrate deeply into the skin. However, they can cause irritation for people with sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations.
  • Mandelic Acid. Mandelic acid is lipid-soluble and penetrates less deeply into the skin. Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to blend with keratin and sebum, making it particularly effective for addressing acne.
When trying skincare acids for the first time, your skin may have low tolerance, or you might be unsure how it will react. To start safely, Hu recommends the following approaches:
  • Start With Cleansers Containing Acids. Use a face wash with a small amount of acids to gently test your skin’s reaction.
  • Choose Low Concentrations. Opt for products with lower acid concentrations, which are widely available, to ease into usage.
  • Use Intermittently: Apply the product one day, then take a break for two to three days. This gives your skin time to adjust before gradually increasing the frequency of use.

. Hu said that a higher acid concentration does not always translate to stronger effects, as the product’s pH level plays a crucial role. A lower pH indicates higher acidity and greater effectiveness, while a higher pH can reduce the product’s impact, even if the acid concentration is high.

In the United States, skincare regulations do not typically mandate labeling of pH levels on acid-based products, so consumers often rely on acid concentration as the primary reference point when selecting a product.

When choosing the concentration of skincare acids, Hu recommends keeping AHAs, such as glycolic acid, below 10 percent. For mandelic acid, concentrations between 10 and 20 percent are generally acceptable.

If you experience itching during use, assess whether switching products is necessary. This reaction might result from weather changes, your skin’s condition, your overall health, or a combination of different factors. Ultimately, adjustments should be made based on your skin’s specific needs.

.

Which Is Better: Single Acid, Multi-Acid, or Acid-Free?

In addition to single-acid products, there are also multi-acid formulations and acid-free options available on the market. Multi-acid products blend the properties of different acids to provide multiple benefits, Hu noted.

However, for those new to skincare acids, it is best to start with single-acid products, as multi-acid formulations can be too harsh for first-time users due to the combined effects of various acids.

Acid-free skincare products are formulated with botanical ingredients that help regulate oil production. These products primarily work by promoting skin metabolism to improve the turnover rate and health of keratinocytes, the primary cells in the epidermis, Hu said.

While acid-based skincare products typically deliver visible results, such as reduced oiliness and smaller pores, within one to two weeks, acid-free products may take up to 28 days—the duration of a full skin renewal cycle—to show effects. These products are particularly suited for those who prefer natural ingredients or are concerned about potential allergies.

Hu emphasized that homemade skincare products, regardless of the type of acid used, are not recommended. These products may contain irritating ingredients or impurities that are difficult to eliminate, increasing the risk of skin sensitivity or allergic reactions.
.

Find a Reputable Salon

Visiting a beauty salon or medical aesthetics clinic for acne treatment can be a good option, but it is important to keep the following in mind:
  • Technique: Traditional beauty salons often rely on manual extraction, with results largely depending on the technician’s skill. The growing use of advanced tools and equipment, however, has significantly reduced the risk of complications.
  • Instrument Hygiene: Poorly sanitized instruments can increase the risk of skin injury. Ensure that all tools and equipment are properly cleaned and sterilized.
  • Professional Skin Assessment: Verify that the staff has adequate expertise to assess your skin condition and provide appropriate, tailored treatment.
Views expressed in this article are the opinions of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of The Epoch Times. Epoch Health welcomes professional discussion and friendly debate. To submit an opinion piece, please follow these guidelines and submit through our form here.
.